August 19, 2019
News Opinion

WINE O’CLOCK: Awful blurb, beautiful bottle, lovely wine

DADAISM is a cultural movement that began in Zurich in 1916. Bet you didn’t know that, now. Neither did I until I read it on the back of a wine bottle.

According to the label on Dadá Art Wine No 3, “Dadaism’s main contribution to art is its constant questioning about what art, or poetry, actually are.” The makers of this Argentinian wine say they are similarly challenging “the established culture that surrounds wine”.

I haven’t a clue what that means but if there was a ‘pretentious label of the year’ award it would certainly win it.

Unlike the promotional blurb, the wines in this numbered range are rather good. No3 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, aged in French oak. It is a nice, spicey red wine with hints of liquorice and dark fruits.

No1 is a blend of Malbec and Bonarda grapes, aged in American oak. It tastes of summer fruits and vanilla, with just a hint of chocolate, and would be excellent at a barbecue, if the sun ever puts in an appearance for more than an hour at a time..

The best I have tried is the No 8, a red wine of intense colour. It tastes of caramel, dark fruits and, above all, of chocolate – luxurious dark chocolate marks its texture as well as its taste.

The Dadá De Finca Las Moras range of so-called art wine comes in a distinctive, elegant bottle (just ignore the nonsense on the back) and is very good value, selling at €10 in SuperValu and Dunnes.


MICHAEL WOLSEY


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